For more than two decades, Botáni has followed a simple but powerful principle: skincare should work in harmony with the biology of human skin. Long before ingredient trends dominated social media, Botáni’s founder, naturopath Barbara Filokostas, was exploring the therapeutic properties of olives and their remarkable compatibility with the skin.
During the mid-1990s, Barbara began observing that olive-based preparations were particularly effective in supporting skin barrier repair and hydration in her patients. This observation led her to focus on one of the olive’s most fascinating compounds—squalene—a lipid naturally produced by the human body.
Human skin produces squalene as a major component of sebum, the protective oil secreted by sebaceous glands. Research shows that squalene can represent up to 12–20% of human sebum lipids and plays a key role in maintaining the skin’s protective barrier and reducing oxidative damage caused by environmental stressors (Pappas 2009; Huang, Lin & Fang 2009). Because of its multiple double bonds, squalene functions as a natural antioxidant capable of neutralising free radicals generated by UV radiation and pollution (Huang, Lin & Fang 2009).
This biological compatibility inspired the creation of Botáni’s Olive Skin Serum—one of the earliest skincare products to centre its formulation around olive-derived squalene.
Today, however, most skincare brands rely on squalane, the hydrogenated version of squalene. Hydrogenation saturates the molecule by removing its reactive double bonds, making it far more stable and resistant to oxidation during storage (Sell 2002). This stability explains why squalane is widely used in cosmetics as a moisturising emollient that helps reduce transepidermal water loss and improve skin softness (Lodén 2012).
While squalane is highly effective as a skin-conditioning ingredient, it differs chemically from natural squalene. Its saturated structure means it does not exhibit the same antioxidant activity as the original molecule.
Another major change in the industry concerns how squalane is produced. Historically, squalene was obtained from shark liver oil, which raised significant environmental concerns due to overfishing of deep-sea sharks (Spanova & Daum 2011). As sustainability awareness increased, the cosmetics industry shifted toward plant-based alternatives.
Today many cosmetic brands produce squalane using industrial fermentation from sugarcane. In this process, engineered yeast convert sugar into precursor molecules that are chemically refined into squalane. While this biotechnology allows large-scale production, the final ingredient is a highly purified and isolated molecule that lacks the naturally occurring compounds present in plant oils (Rodrigues & Pinatel 2023).
Olive oil, by contrast, remains one of the richest natural plant sources of squalene. Research shows that olive oil contains substantial concentrations of this lipid alongside other beneficial compounds including polyphenols, phytosterols and tocopherols, which contribute to antioxidant activity and cellular protection against oxidative stress (Owen et al. 2000; Pacetti et al. 2019; Gorzynik-Debicka et al. 2018).
Squalene itself has recognised biological activity. Studies have demonstrated its role in antioxidant defence, skin barrier protection and tissue repair processes within the skin (Huang, Lin & Fang 2009). In olive oil, squalene forms part of the oil’s unsaponifiable fraction, helping protect the oil from oxidation and contributing to its natural stability (Nam et al. 2017).
Botáni’s formulations respect both sides of this chemistry. Rather than relying solely on isolated molecules, the brand focuses on olive-derived ingredients that maintain their biological synergy. Olive-based squalene exists alongside naturally occurring compounds such as polyphenols, phytosterols and tocopherols—components that work together to support skin health.
This philosophy has been validated not only by laboratory testing but also by decades of real-world results. One measure of oil quality is the Peroxide Value (PV), which indicates oxidation or rancidity. While oxidised oils can show PV levels of 20 or higher, Botáni’s Olive Skin Serum maintains a peroxide value below 5 even after extended storage, demonstrating exceptional stability and freshness.
Further stability testing has shown the formulation remains intact even after prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures, including trials at 40°C for up to twelve months. This resilience reflects the natural antioxidant network found within olives themselves, reinforced with carefully selected vitamin C esters that help maintain formulation stability.
Equally important is the environmental story behind the ingredient. Botáni sources its olive compounds from the remains of olives already pressed for oil, ensuring the raw material forms part of a circular agricultural economy. Rather than creating ingredients through energy-intensive fermentation tanks, the brand utilises what nature has already perfected.
In an era where ingredient marketing often prioritises trends over transparency, Botáni continues to follow a different path—one grounded in biology, tradition and evidence.
After more than twenty years, the message remains simple: when skincare works with the skin’s natural chemistry, the results speak for themselves.
